Alonissos: Dolphins, Seals and the Largest Marine Park in Greece

Alonissos is tranquillity itself. No discotheques, no tourist markets, no all-inclusive resorts. The third large island of the Northern Sporades has deliberately chosen a different model: nature, calm and authenticity. And it works. Those who once moor in a quiet bay here, watching dolphins leap past in the evening light, immediately understand why Alonissos is the best-kept secret of the Aegean Sea.

The National Marine Park: the largest in Europe

Alonissos forms the heart of the National Marine Park of the Northern Sporades — the largest marine reserve in Greece and one of the largest in Europe. The park encompasses Alonissos itself and some ten surrounding uninhabited islets (Peristera, Kyra Panagia, Gioura, Piperi and others), together covering more than 2,200 km² of protected sea.

The park was established in 1992, partly to protect the Mediterranean monk seal. Fishing, hunting and anchoring are prohibited in the core zone. Those who respect the rules are rewarded with an underwater world of extraordinary richness.

The Mediterranean monk seal

The monk seal (Monachus monachus) is one of the most endangered mammals in the world — fewer than 700 individuals survive globally. The Sporades are home to 40–60 of them, the largest concentration in the Aegean Sea. The seals live in sea caves along the coasts of the uninhabited islets. They are shy and rarely show themselves, but those who stay patient and quiet sometimes get lucky.

Dolphins: bottlenose and common

For dolphins you do not have to wait long. Bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncatus) and common dolphins (Delphinus delphis) live in the park in considerable numbers. They regularly swim alongside boats — sometimes within 2 metres of the hull. Best moments: early morning or in the glassy water of late afternoon. The channel between Skopelos and Alonissos is a hotspot.

Snorkelling above ancient Ikos

Alonissos bears its modern name, but in classical antiquity the island was called Ikos. An earthquake destroyed the ancient town and submerged it. At 3–6 metres depth, just off the island's eastern coast, you can explore the remains by snorkelling: stone walls, ceramic shards, sunken anchors. One of the rare places in the world where this is so easily done without scuba equipment.

Alonissos Chora: reborn hilltop village

The abandoned hilltop village of Alonissos — the Chora — was heavily damaged by the 1965 earthquake and evacuated by authorities. But in the 1980s, artists and adventurers began restoring and reoccupying the houses. Today the Chora is a small-scale, white village high on the hill with a breathtaking view over the Aegean. No hotels, no souvenir shops. Three small tavernas, a tiny chapel and the best sunset on the island.

Peristera: the finest anchorage islet

The uninhabited islet of Peristera lies directly opposite Alonissos and is reachable in 15 minutes by sailing boat. The bays on its eastern coast are sheltered from the wind and completely clear. Motor boats are excluded from the core zone — perfect for those seeking peace. Sea turtles and even monk seals can be spotted here.

Kyra Panagia and Gioura: for the adventurous sailor

Further out, deeper into the park, lie the uninhabited islands of Kyra Panagia and Gioura. Kyra Panagia has a functioning monastery — the monks are the only permanent residents. Gioura is home to wild goats, descendants of a population that lived in isolation for centuries. Anchoring is permitted for sailing yachts here, but motor yachts are prohibited.

Practical for sailors

Alonissos is the most suitable base for one or two nights within the park. The harbour at Patitiri is small but functional. Provisioning is possible, there is a good supermarket and several excellent tavernas. The island also has a qualified dive centre for those wishing to explore the park's underwater world with tanks.